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tactical_abyss
18-Jun-11, 14:10

The weakest squares on the chessboard....
I've had a few class C and D players contact me over the last few weeks and ask me about which openings I prefer or how to exploit your opponents weakeness,ect ect.These are big questions that I cannot easily answer.It all depends upon your personal set of skills and how your opponent plays,if he wants to trade down and a host of other factors.
So the following info,while many of us know these basics,are still to be learned by the beginners and even C and D rated players:

I personally prefer 1.d4 over 1.e4,simply because I have studied the d4 lines much more over the decades and prefer lines that move out of book quickly...like the Trompowski Attack,which of course,is a d4 opening,not an e4 opening.

But there is alot of misunderstanding and misconceptions over central board control vs the weakest chess squares on the board.So what are the weakest squares on the chessboard in the opening and even sometimes in the middle game?
They are the f7 square and the f2 square!Why?Because these are the only 2 squares that are not defended by a major piece in the opening and sometimes middlegame.Consider these 2 squares your "target"squares to attack directly or indirectly.So if your playing white,then attacking the light squares around the black King or attacking the dark squares around the white King is the key to success.This is where many a "fools mate"is also established.

Consider the fact that correct tempo attack on those key f7-f2 squares can actually have a more devastating effect(sometimes)than actually controlling the center of the board with the e4,e4,d4,d5 squares!

So,as to openings,in reality 1.e4 has a much BETTER attacking capability on blacks f7 square than 1.d4 openings....and the video in the first link I provided will illustrate this.I would simply suggest that lower rated opponents learn the art of f7 or f2 attack and using 1.e4 as their primary learning tool until they do a good job in mastering these "target"squares before proceeding into 1.d4 openings.

I've included 2 links below,to better describe these 2 key squares on the board,including an offshoot g7 square.Diagrams and a few words from the "bughouse champs"with the USCF link and the other link with a nice video should prove valuable to those just learning about these main target squares.Keep in mind again,that keeping pressure in and/OR around the f7 or f2 squares has many times been the turning point in a game for the winning advantage!

Best,
TA

www.thechesswebsite.com


main.uschess.org
valonkansa
23-Jun-11, 01:08

Weakest squares
Very interesting! I'm still an amateur, but I'm learning and this kind of posts are very useful. Of course you still have to play to actually understand what a certain tactic means on the board, but I think studying tactics is beneficial too.

Your comment on the key f7-f2 squares was interesting, cause I've played a game, where I initially controlled the center, but the opponent managed the break my control with well-planned attacks on this area. After that I just had to defend and the game ended in my loss. But I quess I learned a lot from my defeat. Controlling the center is not everything.  
nathanman22
23-Jun-11, 09:48

Clarification
what are class c and class d players?
tactical_abyss
23-Jun-11, 14:17

Yes,valonkansa,as development of your game proceeds,you must also keep those key "F" squares well protected aside of your King.

nathanman22....class C players are those who fall between a 1400-1599 rating and class D falls between 1200-1399.Atleast this is the USCF standard rating.We all start on GK then,as a class D player.

Here are the rating breakdowns(USCF):

Class A= 1800-1999
Class B= 1600-1799
Class C= 1400-1599
Class D= 1200-1399
Class E=1199-1000
Class F= 999-800
Class G=799-600
Class H= 599-400
Class I= 399-200
Class J= 199/below

Senior master=2400 and up
Then there are GM levels ect ect.

I would say,if your a class J player you should probably find some other game to play than chess...since you would not seem to be doing at all very well!Ha,ha!

TA
nathanman22
23-Jun-11, 19:37

What are you called
when you are between 2000-2400....?
tactical_abyss
23-Jun-11, 20:48

nathan,
Ah!I forgot to list the 2000 to 2400 level.

Expert= 2000-2199
Master= 2200-2399

Also in the 2400 level,you can be called a senior master or an IM(International master)depending upon which organiztional system you use,like FIDE.Since I am a life member of
the USCF,I call myself a senior master,rather than an IM.

As to the GM title class,I won't get into that,since it is sometimes a little complex as how a
player is labeled a GM.There are "norms"to win against other GM's and other factors.
But usually a min of 2500 and above,but really mostly 2600 and above are GM's after several
competitive factors are met.

I play GM's from time to time at my chess club in NYC,but I will never become one.

TA
nathanman22
24-Jun-11, 07:30

how does this apply...
with gameknot ranks? can you say they are relatively similar to standard over the board chess ratings?
tactical_abyss
24-Jun-11, 07:56

Nathan,
I believe the GK system is similar to the USCF and FIDE system,but I have not actually checked into every nook and cranny of GK's rating system.Its easy to check GK's system on their question/answers and take the time to go online and check the USCF or FIDE rating calculations and other things....if you want to.The USCF has performance bonus rating points that GK does not have,ect ect.The USCF also has online chess as well as OTB,so there is corresp chess just like GK's if you are a member of the USCF.And yes,you can even win money and get a check in the mail in some corresp USCF sections with 7 players,for example.

So basically,I believe that both are similar with the rating systems,but not exact.

nathanman22
24-Jun-11, 08:39

thanks for you help
I was trying to determine what class I was in...I'm currently a class C player...but at peak I made it to class B. I've heard it said that 1200 was average for a chess player. Is that correct?
tactical_abyss
24-Jun-11, 10:05

Hi Nathan,
Ahhhh...that a good question about 1200 being average for a chess player.Thats a relative question.Perhaps a subset of players not having alot of experience,not playing in many tournaments,not a member of any clubs from High School,college or private...then perhaps the average in that subset would be 1200 average.But from all my experience and from what I have seen,read and heard....my observations show me that 1300-1400 is more the "average"of most chess players across the USA,atleast the ones who are semi active.Perhaps in Russia or one of those other countries where kids are born with a chesspiece in their mouths,I would say the "average"is probably much higher,since alot of those kids play as much chess as we play baseball or football....its even more their pastime than ours I believe.

I remembered in the early 1970's playing my Boris in a box chess machine.My strength back then was around 1350-1400,with only my friend playing me and a High School Chess Club.Boris machine was around the same in rating as me...1400 on the longer time control setting.So I won about 50% of the games.
My club played the machine(25 other kids)and it was about the same....40-50% wins.
So the conclusion there is that are "subset"of players in the club were all around 1300-1400,NOT 1200,else the "machine"would have beat most of us,most of the time!

Again ratings are relative,even to geographical location!

TA