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wrecking_ball 05-Apr-14, 18:02 |
 Some secrets revealed with the corresp pro's... |
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wrecking_ball 05-Apr-14, 21:20 |
Pro tips... In no particular order: 1.Patience.Some players play blitz style in a 3 day per move game.No,no good.Its sometimes best to come back a few times to the board and seek out variant moves.In the stronger opponent games I set up an OTB and actually walk around the board to get a perspective view from both sides of the board and in 3D as opposed to a computer screen.Sometimes your brain will assimilate a position better when viewed from different angles,stimulating your mind to understand more complex tactical positions.Slow down! 2.Seek out players that have 50 or more games going on at one time.Chances are,with only a few usable hours in the day to play their corresp games,the ones that have a ton of games going on at one time will be spending much less time on each individual game.Thats a plus for you.THEN,concentrate on games that have a notorious higher degree of closed and complex middle game positions...perhaps something like an anti-meran in the d4 games.There becomes then,a higher probability that the player playing 50-100 games at a time will miss a deeper complex positional trap or have a problem with square control,ex-ray attacks ect ect. 3.How serious are you to win?That is the question!How many players on GK do what I do? That is,to research a player's games way ahead of time(sometimes weeks and months ahead)before deciding to challenge them?Looking at their past games...wins/losses and draws.Getting a pattern of what they are better at and what they have been losing at more frequently?Do you check their profile out with a microscopic analysis?Win,loss ratio,time-out's,amount of average move time and more?This is extremely important.If you think this is a waste of time to do and is way too time consuming,then your not a serious corresp player and will probably not advance into the master or senior master arena...ever.Sometimes,I research a player for months before I decide to challenge them to that perfect game that I feel I will have an edge on them. 4.Playing opponents with big game loads during the holiday seasons.Are you aware that more players LOSE games during the holidays than any other time of the year?Yes,its true.So seek out big game load game players that also have larger time-out percentages and challenge them about 2 to 3 weeks before Christmas,New Years or Thanksgiving(so that the more complex midgame has arrived by the holiday).Those tactics combined with alcohol and sleepy turkey eats(by them)can give you a theoretical edge in the win dept.I'm joking right?Think again,i'm deadly serious. 5.Keep an eye on that green light.You can get a timing on-off pattern of how long your opponent takes to move not only in your games but others.Sure,you can get an average off of his profile...BUT on certain particular days you may be able to determine that he is moving quicker than usual!!!This is where you need to complicate things if possible and use more complex strategies and a bit more conditional moves that can complicate.If he is in more of a "rush"that day,you may have just layered a better foundation to his quicker demise. These are just a few of the ways the masters and senior masters on GK and other sites think.Its very hard to gain an edge,especially on the 2300-2600 levels when playing other opponents of that same rating level,so any way to gain an edge,even theoretically is the way to go. So you guys take your game seriously or passively?Hmmmmm. |
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wrecking_ball 05-Apr-14, 22:03 |
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wrecking_ball 07-Apr-14, 15:10 |
Additional book secrets from the pro's... In other posts in this club,I have discussed a number of top quality opening chess DVD's that you can buy.I have also,if you look closely in the post on opening books,have included a "you tube" link on building your own book.I have several personal books that were built for me,by a close friend of mine at my club in NYC,since I am no expert like he is on the programming issues. Its important to note something here,however,at the very least with those players beginning to climb the rating ladder. Once you get accustomed to 2 or 3 of the top opening books,you should be able to determine through observation and repetition,not only which "book"your opponent is using,but EXACTLY WHEN he has strayed from the opening book.On the top levels of play,most of the time it is narrowed down to usually 3 books being used...either Hiarcs,Houdini or the Rybka opening book.I'd estimate probably 95% its going to be one of those books on the over 2200 level of play anyway.Many players below the 2200 level still use older books like Shredder which can easily be crushed by a book like Hiarcs. But what I want to specifically note for my readers is(going back to exactly when your opponent has strayed from one book or another)is of key importance!At that moment in time,he is playing on his own,not using a book move,well least none in the regular commercial arena.But YOUR book may go on farther than his!For example,you may have a Hiarcs and he may have a Rybka book.Or in any case,he may have made a weaker move which in turn should be specifically analyzed for a much longer period of time.Its important,for masters to KNOW EXACTLY WHEN their opponent has strayed from the book!This can also apply to lesser rated opponents as well.This is a critical point in the crossroads of the game!It can give you a quick edge,especially if your book is longer and superior to his book. I have,for example a live game going on now(I will of course not mention who),who has strayed out of the stronger book lines quite early.Yes,sometimes this is ok,but as many senior masters know(like myself),its usually NOT a good idea to "stray"out of book TOO EARLY.Perhaps by the end of the first 15 opening moves,or by midgame its ok,but any earlier it usually spells a small to medium positional disadvantage for that player moving out of book a bit too early.The best stats are already "in",within the top books usually for many of the regular openings(not necessarily irregular) and swaying away too early is usually not good statistically. So again,concentrating and doing your homework,taking more time and perhaps looking at additional subvariations in books like MCO-15 is definitely the key that may indeed give you an edge in that new out of book position created by your opponent!For example,many times even though I "knew" we were now out of book,what do I do next?Just give it my best shot and make the best move I can?HELL NO!!!I painstakingly look in various books(like MCO-15) and others and check for what is called subvariation "footnotes" to see if I can find what would be the follow through of that piece move when combined with other variated moves that you could make.Yes,MC0-15 is an older paperback book,but you would be surprised at the help you can get from that book(within the footnotes)when your opponent has strayed away(especially early on)from Hiarcs,Rybka,Houdini or Shredder DVD books. Too much work and time to do these things or think about them? Well,that's the difference between you and I!And this is one of the things that will separate the much higher rated players from you!Want to stay at your rating and either never improve or improve at only a smaller plateau level?That's easy!How?Never listen and do anything I say,that's much easier,right?Becoming a better chess player takes work and patience and burning the midnight oil.Your either willing to do some things or not.Hey,your thinking,this is only some club on some obscure chess site,what do you know WB?What I know is more than you,by lightyears...that's what!It's your choice what level your willing to take in deeper study.Take just tiny effort's and you will receive little in return! And what I said here on"books"barely touches the surface of the iceberg!But its a start! WB |
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wrecking_ball 12-May-14, 05:40 |
Paying vs non paying members(a theory) Now,what I am about to write you may "kind of"already know or thought about.Or perhaps you are in the dark about.What I am about to tell you,you may scoff at,find it funny or disbelieve it completely.What you perceive or had some or no experience with does vary depending upon the opponent,but there are what I call... "higher probability loss factors"based upon the level of financial investment to GK! In theory,paying members to GK will,most of the time,take their games more "seriously"than non paying members.This is not written in stone,but I have actually did the math on several players games as well as my own and have determined that I have won just a bit more against non supporting(non paying free members) than members that are at the Gold level(example). Sounds unbelievable?Think again!Put ratings aside for the moment.I have been playing master and above levels on GK for years.I have personally observed a few more wins against the same masters and even ones at my level(that may be paying now,but were not then) who lost more frequently against me and others. In theory,some of the non paying members that are "free"of financial obligation to GK will in essence,not be doing as much "work"to win,research,pay for books and DVD's,update their opening databases to cutting edge(which COSTS MONEY!) like Hiarcs and other opening databases and a host of other factors.Am I calling these players cheap or thrifty?No,not at all.I'm just making an observation. Disbelieve this?Again,I repeat...think again! I have the math to support my theories! Now,I have also did the math after thousands of games on 4 different chess sites and postal... and have determined something interesting!What you ask? That the highest paying members(like titanium)on GK and other highest investment $$ on other sites have a slight "down curve" of wins and time-outs!Why?Because,among other things,this allows those players to get wrapped up in so many games(like 200 simultaneous games on GK),that the pure "quality"of their play has gone down,they are playing way too fast.They may time out much (like Harpov and others) or simply not be taking enough time like the Gold member playing much less games because they CAN'T play as many games! Now,i'm not speaking about big rating gaps between the opponents,but similar ratings relative to paying/non paying members or in the range of about a 100 points north(max)representing the non paying member,relative to the paying member 100 points or less(or even)to the paying member.I have personally observed the Gold member win against this player more,even at a lesser rating!Same with 2 non paying members playing each other.Lets say,that I am a 2300 rated and I just observed a potential upcoming opponent win against another 2300 opponent and both of those opponents were free members.What I am saying(in a theoretical sense) is that when I decide to play either one of those opponents,even with the same kind of opening,I have a slightly higher probability of winning(especially against the loser of that past game)....because: 1.He will not in theory invest in the deeper time necessary to find that special subvariation line to edge me out. 2.He will not be taking his game as seriously as me. 3.He will probably not have invested the money for the better books,learning tools,opening books and more. So,in other words,some 2300 rated that are paying members may,in theory,have a slightly better chance at winning against other 2300-2400 rated players(or drawing against the higher rated)that are NON PAYING MEMBERS!!So simply arguing factors of "rating" are not necessarily showing the WHOLE PICTURE! Now,at the moment,I am playing all paying members.But as time goes on,I will actually "seek out" a theoretical advantage of some 2200 to 2500 rated future opponents ahead of time! How? I will try and play non paying members that combine this free membership with playing more than 50 games at one time and have a higher percent of time-outs on their profile. On the flip side of the coin...I will also seek out titanium members that are playing like a massive amount of games,like 150-200 simultaneous games.Then use SHORTER time controls(2 days)max and take much longer to analyze that game and use my best cutting edge opening book! The probability of my win factor,even at him being,say 50-100 points above me in rating,is,in my opinion higher than his! Some player ratings may have been earned over the years by winning bits and pieces of smaller rating points to their 2300 rating(for example)...a point here and there over a thousand games played.But if you'll notice my profile...I have gained a 2300 rating in ONLY 25 quality games played so far!Far less than a 1000 games played by someone else who has more "ups and downs",draws and time-outs and "bumps"in the road than me! So,its my firm opinion that you can win more games playing against free members if you are a paying member and "should"be more serious a player than your opponent....as is the case many times.Perhaps you have never actually counted your wins relative to paying and non paying members.Take a look into your history and count them up!Maybe it is the case and maybe not...but I have some evidence that speaks for itself! Either way,keep my theory in mind next time! WB |
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wrecking_ball 12-May-14, 18:22 |
Some losses are planned that way... Yes,on the higher levels some games are given away for more sinister reasons,indeed. Does it happen often on GK?Not often,but it happens! Fischer gave away early games at the Spassky match in 1972.There were sinister reasons in psychology there as well.And he won the match.It has been noted by many players on high levels that it was very possible that Fischer would have lost that match if he would not have given those games away early in the match.I tend to agree. |
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wrecking_ball 14-May-14, 13:17 |
Single and double rating shortcuts in % theory... I call it the shortcut advantage to raising your rating,especially when your in a hurry! I'll use myself in this example. Ok.I was at 2524 in rating only a few months ago.I had cancelled my TA account.You all know my goal:To reach 2500 again and as soon as possible.But I am at 2300 now,which is a whopping 200 points below my real strength. So what can I do to "accelerate"the rating increase back to 2500 a bit quicker?Play only high rated players that have severe heart problems and are on their last leg?Ha,ha...no. One way is to do a bit of a past game search and find out who I won against in the past as TA,play similar games against those players with my new name(and TA is NOT on my profile and they may never know). And/or....Seek out old and new opponents that have a big history % of time-outs!!!! Nothing wrong with winning a game and gaining points through an opponent timing-out,especially if it "shortcuts" and speeds up the process of that 2500 goal of mine. The logical thought process behind this idea is that I ALREADY EARNED and PROVED my correspondence strength in the past,so there is nothing wrong with taking that "wormhole"ahead to where I should be at,just a bit quicker! And take special note:Any player that times-out has the option to reinstate the game from that position.This is a DOUBLE shortcut advantage!How?Well,lets use a real example right now! I just won a game against rjmacready since he timed-out in a recent game with me.The probability of him timing-out was considerable....(his profile stated 40 time-outs at 7.7%). That is one of the reasons I challenged him,plus I beat him in the past as TA. But if,and I say if rjmacready does decide to play me again from that timed-out position,he may very well lose AGAIN,especially if I have a better game from that position....or he may time-out AGAIN!So then,this would be DOUBLE points on one game!!!See?So if rjmacready decides to play me again,the end result may be 4.7+4.7=9.4 points for one game against a 2100 player on the same game!Wormhole effect! So,just a master tip.Keep your eyes on your opponents profile.If you scrutinize your opponents profile under a microscope,it can tell you many things.So can checking out past games played.But the key here is that you can find ways to defeat your opponent before you even decide to challenge him!Now,i'm not suggesting "artificial"rating inflation to opponents,but for some of us mad chess geniuses that already can and have stepped into bigger chess rating shoes,it is NOT artificial rating inflation...since the shoes i'm wearing are way too tight!That is the difference. I can see where someone that has 8-10 opponents and they all time-out and raise a 1400 rated players rating,to maybe 1500,that new rating,may indeed be too high for that players abilities and true strength.So that,can be deemed a kind of rating inflation manipulation.But,no rules are being broken,now are they?Of course not!Your opponent timed-out,not you,nor did you secretly ask him to time out!He did that on his own!You just used a bit of crystal ball foretelling.But the odd's of that happening are microscopic.So stop dreaming! Give me 20 players at 2500-2700 on GK that all time-out and i'll be in rating heaven and where I should be.But the odd's of that happening are probably 1 trillion to 1!!Ha,ha! But I will find a few more opponents that WILL time-out.I'm a pro at finding them.One high probability timer-outer i'm playing right now!He came close a few times already!The wrecking ball is waiting patiently.Some opponents let their game go down to 1 or 2 hours left in the game before making a move.This is a bad decision.What if,they have no way to take an emergency time-out vacation from their phone,and they are stuck in a traffic jam for over 2 hours?I count 5 cases where this happened to my opponents on GK,including a fender bender,sick spouse and more.Sure,things happen in life,but you must also gauge and move in your games in such a way as to not let your flag go down to 1 hour....many,many times!Sooner or later you'll get bit!If you find that happening,then your move settings are too low.You should be only playing 5 to 7 day setting,not 2 or 3 day settings. So,don't let the "vultures"(like me!) grab your points away like a dandelion "fluffie" in a high velocity wind tunnel!Because I will accept it with a big grin on my face!And if you were losing,i'll play your reinstated game again and turn on the wind tunnel one more time,if possible! |
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wrecking_ball 18-May-14, 13:41 |
Psychology race to destroy your opponent quicker... Now what the heck am I talking about this time? Well,some players want to feel "big"that they have this great opening database,they feel kind of "invincible".It may be one of the best $$ can buy.They may also want to move very quickly and be the last to move for the day.Sometimes you can get a feel for these opponents.As soon as you move,they move in less than a minute or two later.Its kind of a "race" to see that your opponent will respond back like lightening. This occurs very commonly in the first opening moves,sometimes as high as move 30 or so,especially if your and his database is a good one and a lengthy one. The key is to be faster than them...go like HELL!Move it as if your life depends upon it!But don't screw up!And try to play 2 games with this speedy opponent,not one game,both black and white.Or better yet...two games of the same color!!!Why?Some players are just a bit prone to make a book error,blunder by moving to a3 instead of a4(example) or they may be in such a hurry to win the race war with you that they forget to look at the fact that they selected a line that has a less probability of a winning edge as opposed to another tree line in that book.They may on occasion mix the game moves up with the other one(especially playing two games of the same color)!!Speed kills! So,if your keen enough not to F up,you can outdo your opponent by switching back and forth very fast between a white and black game(or two games of the same color),combine conditional moves and psychologically place a reverse speed pressure on your opponent.Some players want to play ultra fast,but are NOT as good as they think they are and DO overshoot a square and hit submit being in a hurry or play an inferior line in the book they are using.Sure,that can happen to you if you also play rapidly,but that is where you will have to look within yourself and say..."i'm not going to screw up and i'm going to move faster than him and I will be the last to move today!"Period! I am playing a speedy opponent right now and I know he is using the same book as I am.But due to his speed play,I have already noticed that he has used two moves in the book that are quite a bit inferior based upon the stats of that book.He screwed up due to speed!I simply know it from experience!I expect to win that game.But I cannot mention the specific game because it is ongoing. So it takes a keen eye and my method that can be employed on occasion is not for the faint of heart,but it has hidden theoretical advantages. Just a tip from a corresp pro.Hmmmm...who would that be? |
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wrecking_ball 19-May-14, 04:29 |
My "recipe"above is to be used only on RARE occasions where you kind of get that "feel" that your opponent may simply outplay himself with his ridiculous speed ego.I was telling you above how to possibly take advantage of that.But if you make it a habit of doing what I posted above,you too will eventually blunder or make a mistake of some kind that may very well cost you the game. So its one of those things you can apply once in a while,but very sparingly! |
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wrecking_ball 19-May-14, 05:40 |
Deleted by wrecking_ball on 19-May-14, 05:53.
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wrecking_ball 19-May-14, 05:52 |
Draw method psychology... I call this "professional draw request timing". On the higher levels of play(like mine)there will always be a high draw rate %.When I was TA,my draw rate was approx 46%.My win rate was approx 52%.Loss rate about 2%.That was with approx 290 games played as TA. There is many hidden factors that go into these draw games,however.Lets say that you really see a draw and know its a draw.It might not be a definite highly observable dead draw with just a tiny amount of pieces on the board,but it could be something like a Petrov defense game(example) and by midgame,not even the endgame,you can plainly see the mirror image from past games played that always ended up in a draw. So you decide to do the draw request thing by sending it to your opponent combined,perhaps,with a series of conditional moves to prove a point.That is generally a mistake!Most players will NOT accept a draw request(statistically)if you also send the request with a series of conditional moves.Part of that reason is that NOW,since they moved through the series of conditionals,the draw request is cancelled.And in order for THEM to accept a draw,THEY NOW have to send it to YOU.Many players do not like to send draw requests themselves.They go on with the draw game indefinitely.If you had WAITED a bit,say,another 10 moves and THEN requested the draw(and used no conditional moves),there is a much higher probability that the draw would have been ACCEPTED.Its a psychological thing!This method is the "short"version that mainly applies to opponents around your own rating. Lets go a bit deeper,however.Lets say your opponent is rated a bit higher than you,maybe quite more.Those players will be even more reluctant to accept a draw with you,because they will lose some rating points for the draw.But lets say it truly IS NOT necessarily a complete draw,but in order for your opponent to "MAYBE" win,it may go to move 100+....and they are being a bit stubborn in accepting.That is ok on their part,but again,you KNOW it is drawish but it is possible that your opponent MIGHT pull a win 40 moves later since he is,say,a 100 rating points above you. Now,here is where I will go against my normal logic in isolated cases like this.I have employed the stall-slow down/no conditional factor and massive branching conditional factor(later on with unbalancing the timing factor in the game) to kind of use psychology on this higher rated opponent simply rubbing a bit of sandpaper at him,maybe subliminally annoy him a bit. In other words,he may get a subliminal message that all of this work,move after move(maybe move #85 by now),first waiting for your move,then suddenly getting a series of conditional moves,branch conditionals,ect....is simply not worth all the effort and time for losing 5 points or so,so he does throw in the towel and finally accepts a draw!He is now thinking,"sure,I may possibly win this game,but i'm a bit impatient and want to move on to quicker,more exciting games".Perhaps he just gained a win from two other players while not initially accepting the draw with you,so the loss of a few points on your game is minor. So he throws in the draw towel....after you ask him a second time.Infact,he may finally send you a draw request,even though he is biting his tongue!You have subliminally won this game!And have a few winning points to prove it! So its a toss up.Overall,I would say that you should not request a draw at the same time you are sending conditional moves.But later on send conditional moves(tons of them) with NO draw request attached using a different psychological strategy. Works for me!How many points have I received for a draw from higher rated opponents than me that may have eventually won the game against me?Many! But,it could simply be that you want to move on with other games and you and your equally rated opponent will gain no points for the draw.But you want to break his "hanging on"rope to the drawish game.Ask this player a max of three times without conditionals and on move #90 slow down to a snails pace...especially if his profile states...."average move time 2 hours".Take all 3 days to move.Rub the sandpaper on him. Again,this is isolated cases and I am not suggesting always employing what I mentioned above.But sometimes you must "tinker"with an opponents mind to get him to accept a timely draw.It may actually gain you points that you should have NEVER received! As a final note keep one thing in mind: When I mentioned about "slowing down" and kind of stalling,that is related to mainly DRAWISH positions.That is quite different than slowing down/stalling in LOST positions which I do not necessarily agree with.So,there is a difference.The difference is that it would be next to impossible for your opponent to agree to a draw in a DEFINITE lost position of yours,no matter how slow you begin to move...as opposed to a draw like game that you are slowing down on.So take note of the difference. |
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wrecking_ball 19-May-14, 07:16 |
Now you may be truthful in this statement and perhaps a bit,shall you say,"untruthful",but it does not matter!For you are seeking a draw as soon as possible.How you arrive at getting your opponent to agree to the draw comes in many psychological forms,ploys and hidden tricks...that may be necessary to employ(in some stubborn circumstances) to get an end result! All this work for a simple chess game your thinking? Well,when I was TA,I did not get a 2524 rating without employing some psychological strategy myself in this draw scenario.....even with in an occasional game that I might have LOST 35 moves later against a STRONGER opponent! All this strategy that may or may not work your thinking,so why bother? "Bothering"to do these things is the big difference between a senior master and YOU and the way's the upper rated think and employ these things secretly many times that you may never be aware of!So the original post was about pro tips on corresp chess to squeeze out those rating points as well as win games.And i just gave you a number of tips from the first post to this last one...and more to come in time!Don't forget to check out that first link above. |
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wrecking_ball 07-Jun-14, 08:14 |
So,I must find ways to "accelerate" the process!Remember my tips on occasionally choosing a player with a high level of time-out stats in their profile?While having an opponent that times-out may not necessarily improve your game play,it does help those who are simply trying to shortcut a path up that slick mountain to reach a level that they were at in the first place! So keeping this in mind....I had chosen the opponent "eekan" who has a huge amount of time-outs.And take note to the results in my past game history.He timed-out in BOTH of my games! My "profile "research" has paid off! A bit closer to my goals now! Just wanted to show you one method of winning.You may not want to win that way like i do...and this is understandable.But for the higher rated players like me who do not need to "learn" at a 2300+level due to the fact that they are already at a 2500 level in chess abilities,then,you can well understand why this seek out and destroy the time-out stat players are important in reaching a goal FASTER! Study those stats of you opponents! WB |
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wrecking_ball 11-Jun-14, 09:11 |
Try cherry ice cream next time,not pistachio again and again! So you are a proud winner of that Ruy Lopez game that you played against your opponent that was almost a 100 rating points above you.Congrad! Maybe right away or a few weeks or months later you decide to play this opponent again. Your thinking to yourself: "Hey,I won last time playing that Ruy,so its a no brainer to play him again with a Ruy...and i'll have a good chance at beating him again!!" Do you think this way?Then,yes,its a no brainer....YOU have NO brain!!! My pro suggestion is to never play the same style opening or opening defense NEXT time against the same player you beat last time.There is a strong chance that he/she did their homework on that loss and found through analysis their own weakness's in that style game and have since made adjustments.You may be thinking...."well,i'll just play another variation/subvariation of the Ruy Lopez and that should be effective". Answer:Maybe,but don't count on it! My advise?Try something as a total surprise and something new.Perhaps one of the 1.d4 openings instead of 1.e4.Maybe an English 1.c4 without transposition into the regular Q pawn game. Look at your opponents past loss record in the d4 and c4 opening games.Do they have a string of losses in a d4 game???If so,then they have NOT done their homework in that Q pawn game.But still,my advice is to switch openings or opening defenses,regardless of the loss record of your opponent...UNLESS they have a huge amount of losses in that 1.d4 or 1.e4 opening.1.c4 is a good compromise.I have won countless games playing an English Opening as white and many opponents are not fully prepared for a pure English opening. Keep in mind however,when you are checking out an OPPONENTS loss record: Are those losses being played against much stronger opponents than the opponent you just beat?In other words,you may have won against that stronger opponent,but has that opponent lost 10 Ruy Lopez games to players 100 points north of him?This can be EXPECTED.Your win was NOT expected and more rare.So this would make those opponents of his...200 points above you in rating.See?So do not count those losses!!!Only count the losses from players less than your opponents rating,equal to his or equal or less than your rating. Change the flavor of your ice cream next time.You may get better results!Just like an antibiotic.Some bacteria develop a "resistance" to the drug and the drug becomes ineffective. This can happen easily if you keep playing the same type of game against that player,regardless of your past win. Just a tip of the day! |
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wrecking_ball 19-Jun-14, 17:05 |
A lesson,even to a senior master.... Backing up the story for a moment,I picked my "victim" with that seek and destroy method I have spoke of previously.That is,to seek out opponents that play a ton of games simultaneously.This opponent had 185 games going on at one time....all with 2 and 3 day time limits per move.I don't care how much you love chess,or if your retired and have all the time in the world to play chess...this amount of games being played is simply a ridiculous amount of games to be played at one time.Checking the past game history of this 2500 rated player proved my point.He lost a good number of games he could have won or drawn and drew a huge amount of games that he could have won.I know this after extensive analysis of a large number of oversights that I personally observed in his games that a 2500 player "should"easily see if they would have the time to slow down a bit and think a bit deeper in their moves.Obviously,this player would have to be playing kind of blitz style in order to NOT time-out his games...all 185 of them in 2 to 3 days max.Do the math,its easy to figure that one out. So,I used a long conditional move string at just the "right time" in my game with him...right about the same time that I noticed he was about to time-out about 8 games.(Psychological timing,first class!) But when I conditionally advanced HIS a pawn to a1 to normally promote to a Queen,INSTEAD,I promoted his pawn to a Rook. He ACCEPTED the Rook but as an oversight and mistake....due to his hurry in all his other games!!!!That Rook promotion would not have been enough to win with my superior advantage in the game.He resigned after making his next move with the Rook and apologized to me! Now,do you see why playing too many games can cause dumb mistakes in your games? Love chess ,don't care and will do as you please and even play 200 games,even if it is to be different to my opinions? I love players that think this way!!!! Makes my job at crushing you much MUCH easier!!! Keep up the good work 100-200 game chess lovers and retiree's! I'll swoop down and grab your points anytime!Thanks,and come again! Am I being nasty here?Not at all.Just giving a realistic lesson to those who go through life doing as they please and not heeding the advice that I try and try to explain over and over again.I might as well sometimes talk to a brick wall.At the very least,i'll get an intelligent echo back!!! WB |
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wrecking_ball 29-Jun-14, 21:07 |
tidbits of dumbness or genius? Well,why climb Mt Everest?Why go 300 MPH in a rocket car?Isn't that kind of dumb too?Yes,no? One of the secret reasons to change your handle name is to play the same past opponent you slaughtered 2 years ago and use similar or the identical game and opening/mid game moves..........and they may not be aware of who they are playing,who they lost to and may easily make the same mistakes or moves AGAIN since their is no direct past game record of them playing you in another game.They may not decide to look for a Ruy Lopez game that opens the same way,but they lost on move #53 against you 2 years ago.Your past name is no longer in existence. The name change strategy has worked many times for me and is working now(or has already),as I write this!!! Starting over with a new name or even a new account has its advantages,indeed.Its a real challenge to do as I have.Go from 1200 to now closing in on 2400 in only 40 games played.My goal is 2500 again,but that will come in time.But,by picking a good # of opponents that I beat as TA in the past,I have the psychological edge of surprise.And trust me,not many past players of mine even read the forums or club posts...otherwise I would not have revealed this. I have a slew of 2100,2200-2300 players that I beat a while back and gained a quick 50 rating points...all in about 3 months.When I reach approx 2450,I will engage all 25 of them and hopefully do the "repeat" kill. Then its time for a good martini! |
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wrecking_ball 29-Jun-14, 21:23 |
Deleted by wrecking_ball on 29-Jun-14, 21:28.
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wrecking_ball 29-Jun-14, 21:27 |
Game reinstatements... Go for it! You gained points for the win through his time-out and will gain double the points when he loses the second time around!Don't feel bad about doing this!Its is him that should feel bad for timing-out 14% of the time and bad for losing a second time to you!Take advantage of the situation! Destroy and kill with no mercy and no remorse.....at least once in a while!Put some of that "armor"on! But if you were losing and he timed-out and you won.... No,don't do it!Do not accept the game reinstatement!You got the supreme luck you truly deserve and it may never happen again!Cherish it,pet it,kiss it.And don't get that weak felling that its only "just and fair"that you reinstate the game.Says who,the tooth fairy? |
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wrecking_ball 01-Jul-14, 08:12 |
Deleted by wrecking_ball on 01-Jul-14, 08:34.
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wrecking_ball 01-Jul-14, 08:34 |
More secret tips.... Pay key attention to where your past or present opponent has gone awry in your game with him. What led up to his downfall and loss of the game?What did WB say about the theory of Bishops,Knights,edgefiles,square counting and more?Do you see EXACTLY where he went wrong,even 10 moves prior to his last piece loss?Where and why?Opening,middlegame,endgame weakness?He missed that fork?Why did he miss that fork?It might be more than simply an oversight by him.You may have drawn his attention away momentarily with a sudden file control with your Rook.So it might have been your strength,not his total oversight that caused his demise.Seek out the finer details of the game and draw an end conclusion like I do with my past losing opponents! If you can begin to define a players weakness's,then you will have the edge over him in future games...well,many times statistically!Now you may be thinking...."well,one game will not be enough points on the line to draw total conclusions about weakness's and strengths!" Yes,that is true in most cases(but not all cases).So what next?Well,you painstakingly go through a good # of his other past game losses(preferably where he played and lost to another opponent on the same color that he lost to you). This is ultra key!Do you begin to see a pattern?Does he tend to play weaker with your Knight attacks?Does this pattern emerge in midgame with 2 or 3 other opponents that he played and lost to?Has he missed an ex-ray attack in more than one game...maybe 3 or 4 games? NOW,focus in on those weakness's of his and make mental or written notes about this player on his profile where it states..."notes". Now wait a few months.In that wait time,look for additional key losses,seek out a pattern of which openings he tends to play weaker at and lose's to. Finally,play him again with all of the weapons in hand you learned!Piece together the same opening,opening line and subvariational line(if you can).Concentrate on exploiting that weakness of his.If he lost several times in games to players sneaking up to him with surprise Knights,then make sure your Knights become aggressive sometime during the game. Was he late several times in castling?You castle early then and concentrate on his second rank weak areas that may surround his King due to late castling. Does all of this work?Absolutely! I am playing REPEAT players now that lost to me in the past.And I am winning against them AGAIN and RIGHT NOW!Why?Because they are in a slump?Hell no!I did my homework on them when I disappeared for a while and came back as WB.I was TA in the past.I discovered the areas that they lack strength in...usually end of the middlegame. And I have some players that I have lost to me 3 times or more between me being TA and WB. I will not mention their names...but they are ALL over 2200+in rating! Why so many losses to me?Because they have not learned the weak spots in their games(s)relative to theory!!!!They have not taken the time to check on their past losses and corrected them!Even playing a post game analysis against a computer program(setting up the game a second time) where they blundered or lost a piece would be able to teach them what they "should"have done at that juncture! The key is understanding chess psychology! One of those psy insights by me is the following:Many players go through their entire life of playing chess to never go beyond a certain plateau level.They will continue to make the same mistakes over and over again.They will not always admit it,but they have a "laziness"about them to not be willing to take the time,energy or effort to find ways to improve.They stagnate and plateau in other words!It may be something as simple as looking at just a couple of their past game losses and finding out that they should be more alert to freeing their Rooks up before move 15! Am I feeling bad for these guys?Hell no!I am excited that they are lazy!!!!Why? Because i'm the guy that DID TAKE THE TIME,ENERGY AND EFFORT to do their work for them.....and then crush them to death on the chessboard a few months later.....again and again and AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!Thanks for your rating points!!!!Sweet!!!! And the same routine can be used against future opponents even if you never played them before.Seek and destroy.Analyze and like the military observe where and exactly why they went awry in a game with that other opponent.Copy,duplicate and destroy.When they lose to you,they will do a GK computer analysis.That will do them very little good.Why?If they have not learned from the two other times they lost and ALSO did a computer analysis in those games,what good is the computer analysis without self correction?Use the GK computer analysis all you want!I'll sit back and wait to beat you again next month! One final note and I know your already thinking this: "Well,can't they just use this same routine against me?" Answer:Yes! But see,you can usually see who is not giving the energy and effort to do this simply by his loss pattern.If someone is doing this to you,it was not him!And if you advance to a senior master level,like I am at,then my mistakes are far and few to begin with for someone to try and take total advantage of any weakness's I may have.Sure,i have weakness's like others...but simply very few as opposed to say,a 1500 rated player. But then,that is where the theory comes into play and things you can learn in this club to adjust on those flaws.The key is to who beats who to the punchline in their critical weakness study of the other.You may beat this opponent first before he beats you.And when he plays you again with an opening 1.e4,trying to exploit your past weakness's...then you decline the game and suggest either 1.d4 1.c4 or even 1.b4!!!!Don't allow him to overcome your weakness. WB |
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wrecking_ball 11-Jul-14, 08:35 |
Deleted by wrecking_ball on 11-Jul-14, 08:47.
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wrecking_ball 11-Jul-14, 08:47 |
Cheating?No.Not fair to yourself?Not at all !! Ok,ok.So you lost to an opponent or two recently.But you did your homework,seen exactly where you went wrong and learned from your errors.You have improved.And next time when you come across that opening or mid range move later on,you are prepared and will do much better or dominate the game.Great!But you are "down" those 10 points you just lost and kind of feel bad about it.You say to yourself...."i'm better than that rating which is up there now and its kind of a false reading of where I really stand due to those silly mistakes I made,and I really should be 10-15 points higher where I was at originally"! I agree with this way of thinking! Well,whats one of the things you can do,to jump your rating ahead(where it belongs so that you feel a bit better)and kind of start where you were at again,prior to those loss(s)you just incurred? Answer: Go through a a blackhole "accelerator" chess game,warp time/space a bit and win a game or two quickly with practically no effort or much thinking at all! How?Sounds too good to be true your thinking,right? No,its NOT too good to be true.... and I do it all the time!!!! Seek out opponents,especially ones that are higher in rating than yourself (opponents that accept your challenge) or opponents in and around your rating that have a very high % of time-outs!!!!!!!!!!And I mean....HIGH!!!! No,this strategy does not work all the time(of course!) but it does work(and I will prove it below) in a statistical sense....quite OFTEN!!!!In other words....the odds are in your favor to win through the time-out of your opponent based upon his past game history. Take me,for example.I was at a 2520 rating only a few months ago.It took me approx 4 years to reach that rating and without using much of that time-warp accelerator method described above. I left GK for a few months for various reasons and closed my original account and lost that 2500+rating.Now,I am at 2300+ with a new account.Not bad at all.But I know that my strength is approx 200 rating points above 2300,maybe a 150 points at my present rating of 2366.Is there anything ethically wrong with trying to jump start my original rating back to 2500 again,where it belongs????Not at all!!!! Infact,it is technically BETTER for my opponents that I reach 2500 again as soon as possible!Why?So that they actually KNOW what they are truly up against and can make a wiser decision as to want to accept a game with me or not based upon my "real and true"strength!!!So it even fairer to them!!!! And I am in the process of using the "warp chess accelerator" now! There are others,but here are two recent games from an opponent who times out as if he would rather time-out than win!And he times-out many more times than a fly that takes a crap!Ha ha! (Sorry,but I had to say that!):  game game Now check this opponents profile: gameknot.com Ahhhhhh...what do you see? Answer: 447 time-outs at a whopping 49%....and this has been going on and off for years with him,not just recently. So I see this ahead of time and say to myself...."easy rating points accelerator!" And did it work?Look above again in the links!I'll steal his points anytime without feeling a bit bad,especially in my case where I want to reach the rating I was at only a few months ago and did NOT lose that rating due to hardly any losses at all...maybe 3 or 4 games when I closed my past account. Unmoral?No.Bad way to do things?No.Unfair to myself?Hell no!Bad for my opponent?Yes,but that is HIS mistake in timing-out and simply because I WANT HIM to time-out does not mean that he should or will time-out!That is his mistake,not mine and there is nothing wrong at all doing what I do!!!You throw money at me(rating points) and beg me to take it........I WILL!!!!!!!!!!!And the hidden key?If,by chance,he was losing bad or you had a hidden advantage prior to his time-out with you,ask him if he wants to "reinstate" the game!(Or he may request it!) Then you may be due for a "double reward" accelerator game AGAIN by either beating him a second time without him timing-out or he may,indeed time-out a second time!!!! Ahhhhh...bring me the money!!!! Now,this player was as high as 2215 at one time in the past(check out his profile).But he is self inflicting his own wounds and causing himself to now drop to a much lower 2038 rating. Time to take advantage of the situation! I have many others,but I am not going to give all my "money"away(like above) or reveal everything,since I must cook up some more "stews" with the unnamed opponents in the future when they have ripened their rating up a bit more!!!Then I will pounce! Hey,this thread is about "secrets"of the corresp. pro's!Right? Well,you just got one secret revealed and i'm not the only one doing these dastardly deeds! All's fair in love and war!Right?Hmmmmmm.... WB |
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wrecking_ball 11-Jul-14, 09:21 |
Continued from the post directly above.... So he is into a double whammy! With a history of his time-outs there is absolutely no logic at all(none!) to continue playing a high level bulk of games simultaneously at one time 20-30 or more!Why?To lose another ton of points again???And playing 20-30 games at one time in my opinion is too many games anyway,even if you NEVER time-out!!!Double whammy!!!So,no excuse for medical conditions,work,taking care of granny or anything else!!!!If you have a history of time-outs,then logic dictates to play no more than maybe, 3 game's at one time MAX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Anything more than that is actually ridiculous!!!And timing-out can affect team games and more,so staying clear of teams,leagues and more is the right thing to do!If the theory would be to get back to 2200 again(like he was at) by playing 20-30 games at one time and winning all of them,there is a big FLAW in that method of thinking! The flaw?His own bad record which seems to be set in stone!!!! Hey,I say it the way it is,no offense!I'm a realist,not a pessimist!"Candy coating" reality and truth and white lying is really NEVER a good thing to do...not in chess anyway! Wake up and smell the coffee!Look into yourself and understand your strength's and weakness's!Smashing yourself on the head twice with playing way too many games,but then timing-out all those games can ALL BE CONTROLLED!No excuse!!!And no,I do not want to hear feeble excuse's about your work,car breaking down,taking care of grandma,medical conditions or any other excuse.Sure,things happen in life....but why get into that car going at 100MPH if you know the brakes will probably fail and you will crash into that wall?Think a bit and succeed!!Controlling your chess destiny is not as hard as it may appear! |
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wrecking_ball 18-Jul-14, 09:35 |
Hidden winning psychological stress ploys... Ok,ok.You are playing a much higher rated opponent than you.Somehow,some way,you managed to get to midgame and the position really looks drawish with him having a bit of an edge positionally,but your not totally sure.Your thinking to yourself,"wow,if I could just draw with this guy rated 300 points above me,that would be a feat!"It may look drawish and equal right then,but perhaps your stronger opponent may indeed be able to pull off some kind of magic in the endgame and just barely squeak through with a win.But is he really thinking that way?Not necessarily!He may,for example,be playing 85 other games(like I have advised no one to do)and overlooked things,be way too busy trying to keep up with the other games and not time-out,be frustrated and tired out when all those other games are reaching midgame and he has to spend way too much time in a 24 hour period to respond in those games. Timing here is the psychological key! Now what the heck am I writing about now? Ask for a draw at the correct time!You have to check into his ONGOING game's and see that most of his other games are in mid range where the complexity of the thinking is at its peak! He may agree to your draw simply to get some of the "weight"of the game load off of his shoulders and without really checking or having the time to check that 10 moves later he could have pulled off a much more advantageous position leading to an endgame win.There is indeed,an increased chance psychologically that he will agree to the draw with the timing being lined up just right. That's one scenario. Now comes the "super psychology"! Ok,ok.So he did not agree this time to a draw,but you sent the request,right?Now wait another 7 to 10 moves and send one AGAIN!!!No,your not being rude or a pest.That would be reserved for someone sending a draw offer every other move or so.But there is an increased probability that with a few King shuttling moves,maybe a Knight or Rook move in the same position a few times..... that it may bore him to death and he is picturing a very long game,maybe 100+moves or so.Now,slow down a bit with your moves,changing your fast pace to a snails pace in responding!And he really does not want this,he wants to actually rid you off of his game list,but would not admit to that!Now he is thinking..."well,if I agree to this draw,I would only lose 3 or 4 rating points,so what the heck,let me get rid of this player!"And because you PRESSED for the draw earlier and combined it with the other things I just mentioned,he finally agree's to the draw! You have won a game of psychology! Later,in post game you do a deep analysis with any tools you like and prove that he could have won! Do I have many games like this?Sure!Maybe I will post a few in the future in this club. So,in conclusion,asking for a draw more than once can be your key to draw victory! Just don't overdo it!Else,the reverse will happen!He will finally "guess" that you feel that you are losing(even if you do not feel that way) and continue the game until you do lose!So,you must employ timing and just a bit of repeated draw request balanced on a fine scale. Do these things work? Answer:As sure as the Sun will rise tomorrow! |
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wrecking_ball 18-Jul-14, 09:59 |
Additionally,let me add.... Related to the post directly above,I did the "psychology thing"with this opponent: game Double draw request by me and only 21 moves.He has the edge and is presently rated much higher than me.I say that he had a great winning potential in this game.Hey,its only move 21! His 8 game load might not seem very high,but its still a significant # of games when a player of his rating must think deeply enough.Now,imagine if his game load was 50+games!He is playing many tournament games(where he has to be extra careful) and has reached that "mid game"range I spoke about above.It was much MORE easy to accept my double draw offer in the last 10 moves!Did I truly feel he could have won this game? Answer:Yes His position is superior to mine,although the lesser rated players may not see it. So,this is one of the many secrets of the well polished correp pro's.The game goes much deeper than just playing,that is,on the higher levels anyway! If anyone tells you different,they are simply WRONG,and have no real idea of what goes on behind the scenes! So,how can a 2400+player fall for these things?Trust me they do!Many of the higher rated opponents think in terms of the "big picture".That is,well, one draw and 3 wins coming up,no big deal!I'll just get rid of this one and be able to move quicker in the other 3 games! The super thinker like me already knows how these players "think" and respond like a dog in a laboratory test after 10's of thousands of games played in the last 50 years! Plus,he may think i'm a 2300+player,when indeed,i'm actually a 2500+player and ABOVE him in strength and overall abilities,including dropping a psy hammer on him when he least expects it! All hogwash and ridiculous way of thinking?There is always someone to try and say "no"and be a pessimist.I scoff at those responses! You would be dead wrong if you thought that these things would not work for me or you,even if your rating is 300 and your opponent is 1500! WB |
