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deeper_insight 21-Dec-16, 09:56 |
 Snapshot theory reminders with answers...This thread,however,I will begin to list some key avenues of theory in summary that you must circulate through your mind as you examine any test chess diagram or game against your opponent(s). Some of these "rule guidelines"are not set in stone,but represent higher statistical probabilities of what to seek out in the present mid or endgame position per diagram or real game.If you have been reading all of my past club posts,I have mentioned most of the things already,so this is just a summary review of past comments.There will be a few new "theoretical facts"however. Today,I will just list a few facts below.Later on this year,the list will be much larger. 1. What are the 2 key squares on the chess board that are considered the weakest squares on the board,even before the game begins? Answer:The f2 square and the f7 square.Why?One of the main reasons is that these 2 squares are the only squares that are not protected by a major piece in the very opening.They can be exploited fairly easily with players that delay development or proceed with weak development.(See my post on the weakest squares on the board for more detailed info).Many games are won based upon these 2 squares alone,depending upon which side your playing on.So,in theory,placing pressure on either the f2 or f7 square with any major piece or combination of pieces,including endgame pawn shuttling to attack those squares,should,in theory,develop an advantage.It may also create(through your pressure of an f square)and overly but necessary defensive game with your opponent,forcing him to move his major pieces closer to,or in line with that f square...thus weakening the opposite side of the board on the Queenside of your opponent.I want you to picture that.Involved diagrams are not necessary for now. 2.The power of your Rook(s)on the 7th rank usually outweigh Rooks on your opponents 8th rank and other ranks. www.chess.com www.chess-game-strategies.com www.chessburst.com While I can type in a thousand words on this subject,perhaps the links above will summarize it just as good. Usually more pressure can be exerted towards a mating net with Rook combinations on the 7th rank,especially with 8th rank protected castling and opponent protection against ex-ray Rook/King attack with his King or other pieces.So basically,try to advance your Rook(s)near the endgame to your opponents 7th rank...even if your not quite sure why!You may find that "why"answered after you have the capability of multiple checks and forcing your opponents King into the ranks away from his main forces or eventually forcing your opponents King into the lower ranks of unsafe zones.So,connected Rooks on the 7th rank will statistically spell doom many times for your opponent.Getting them into position however,is another thing,indeed. 3.Hidden rule of the senior masters....Positions with Rooks and OPPOSITE COLOR BISHOPS will generally favor the immediate attacker at that point in the game.In most circumstances what is the usual move that you should make if you see a position like the one below,and you are playing the black side and its your move?: Answer: In most circumstances and to create a better initiative it should be "automatic"that you recognize that A ROOK should move NEXT and no other piece in the diagram above.Lets say its blacks move.Moving Rf8 to lay pressure on that weak f2 square as well as f file pressure plays a key role in initiative here.So that would be the best move.And as you can see,white has no dark squared Bishop to extend any pressure on blacks e5 pawn.In addition,advancing the game forward in your mind should "automatically"observe whites "disconnected pawn" on a4 as well as a present disconnected pawn on g4.You should be able to invision blacks Rook being placed on square f4 to eventually or possibly capture either pawn as a double pawn check.So you should already be formulating a plan of attack at the same time you move your Rook to square f8.Also,observe that square f4 is a dark square,whereas white has a light squared Bishop. In summary to the diagram above.....this game can be drawn with accurate play from white,but the point is that black at that critical moment in time has an advantage in initiative.Thus,white may not play accurately as a possibility,which will then theoretically create much better winning chances for black.So,central pressure on the e or f file with your Rook,especially with opposite color Bishops should be recognized immediately in "snapshot"analysis. 3. Keep those Knights off of the a and h files.Sure,I can get away with strange games like my sodium/hydrogen attack games.But games like that are not for most club members because they go against the proper theory of development. So why is it important to keep those Knights of yours off of the end files...well,at least in the opening and midgame? Answer:Because the "point value"of those Knights are usually reduced due to the real lack of movement to one side.If any Knight has its movement restricted in some way,its point value is usually diminished.Not in all circumstances,of course,but statistically it usually is reduced.Same with some edge pawn combinations..(see my post on material imbalances).Those edge pawns on the a and h files do have values around eight tenths of a full one point value(8/10),especially if they become doubled on the players 2nd and 3rd ranks.So,getting back to the Knights...if you see your Knight on an edgefile,try to remove it as soon as possible.Knights that place pressure on the d and e files usually have much more point value,indeed.And understanding point value changes in pieces through theory is critical in improving your playing strength.These point value changes should be analyzed through a computer program to test various Knight positional point values.You can place the Knight in many self made positions on the endfile and observe what the program illustrates by position the point value is.Then remove the knight to any better position off of an endfile and see the computers point value assessment of the new position.Chances are,as long as the new position of the Knight is not in danger of capture or critical pressure,the new position will show a better point value for you.This is how computers think.And how you should think as well!Keep that in mind. 4.To fianchetto or not.? Answer: Depends upon the game style,your opponent and YOUR rating strength. You put pressure on the center without actually placing a piece there. It gives you the flexibility of attacking elsewhere. One disadvantage is if white has a pawn on b2 and c3 and castles to the queenside the fianchetto bishop is biting on granite and doing very little. A bishop in the corner can only attack in one direction. Many people like to use their bishop to put pressure on their opponents knights. A fianchetto Bishop is out of the game, so to speak.If you ever intend to play a fianchetto system, your opponents can trot out this plan almost without thinking, and if you get your counterattack wrong you will almost certainly be checkmated. In every opening where there is a King's-side fianchetto you can expect to find a critical line where the opponent tried to checkmate down the h-file. Having placed your Bishop on the long diagonal you need to be careful how you place your central Pawns. If they sit about in front of the Bishop they limit its reach until they move; if they become blocked they can choke it for a long while: On the other hand, leaving your central Pawns unmoved leaves the center free for your opponent! So fianchetto openings are difficult to handle, particularly in how you play in the centre. This is part of the attraction of fianchetto systems: they are difficult and so grandmasters can hope for their GM opponents to go astray at some point. Fianchettoes turn up frequently in closed Queen's-Pawn openings, and there is a Fianchetto Variation for White in each of the Indian Defences (semi-closed openings). King's Indian: 1. d4 Nf6 2. c4 g6 3. Nc3 Bg7 4. Nf3 O-O 5. g3 Grunfeld: 1. d4 Nf6 2. c4 g6 3. g3 d5 Queen's Indian: 1. d4 Nf6 2. c4 e6 3. Nf3 b6 4. g3 Kasparov has experimented with: Nimzo Indian: 1. d4 Nf6 2. c4 e6 3. Nc3 Bb4 4. g3 Other footnotes: In the open Sicilian, Black may post the dark-squared Bishop on the long diagonal without fear that it may be stifled by Pawns. The Dragon Bishop is a fearsome creature, particularly if White castles Queen's-side hoping to carry out the clockwork attack against Black's King's-side. Black already has a half-open c-file against White's own King. Overall,I do not generally recommend the fianchetto for class c and d players or below.Much should be learned in other areas of chess theory before feeling confident that you can maintain best pressure on the center of the board.Can you maintain that pressure without blocking yourself in and reducing the Bishop value in that position on square g2(for example)?easier said than done,in many class c and below players! More to come later on in the months ahead. |
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deeper_insight 21-Dec-16, 10:04 |
Slight correction above.... |
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deeper_insight 21-Dec-16, 10:45 |
Hidden,subtle Rook moves on the strong rating levels... Just a bit of senior master theory that are not well know to many...even other senior masters: After thousands of analysis of computer vs computer and post game analysis of human games on the senior master and GM levels,I have discovered a common denominator in many games played that the strongest computer programs usually activate for 2 reasons that usually maintain advantage or wins: Reason #1: I have personally observed that Rooks in semi closed or closed positions on the very strong players(or strong computer program) first rank that are hemmed in a bit,tend to place at least one Rook on the e1 or d1 square,even if it moved away from those squares earlier.Any loss of tempo is not significant enough...usually.This maintains central pressure on either or both of those files(if the computer places them on both e1 and d1). Reason #2: Sometimes both the computer program or the human has no really good move to advance AT THAT PRECISE MOMENT IN TIME AND POSITION without causing a weakness.So a "stall move"is sometimes best to be initiated.What best stall move?Well,that can change,but in many circumstances,that Rook moving to square d1 or e1(or d8 and e8 if playing the black)... is a healthy stall move that still maintains pressure on the central file(s).It is key to remember that by "stalling",you are not making a weak move but hoping for your opponent to make a weaker move somewhere that you can then exploit!It may involve moving your Rook back and forth from say square a1 to d1.The appearance of loss of tempo through a repeated Rook move,is in some cases,just an ILLUSION!Delay and stall has its advantages in many games where the board is still very locked up. And many strong chess programs have illustrated this "style"of play that I have seen time and time again!Keep this in mind when you seem to have no good move to make!Usually bearing down pressure in the boards center,even intermittently can be a key to winning success many moves later when the game opens up and your opponent was forced to maintain a defense on HIS center and now must try to move away while you STILL have maintained Rook pressure on the central files.If,for example,you can capture HIS central pawn posts,this is a critical advantage.See now? |
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deeper_insight 21-Dec-16, 10:47 |
Deleted by deeper_insight on 21-Dec-16, 10:48.
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deeper_insight 21-Dec-16, 10:48 |
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