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 Pawn Structure, discussion continuedjc Pawnology 101 (or what makes pawns tick), Part 1 by Poltroon We’re all slightly romantic when it comes to pawns. We admire our valiant little foot-soldiers, standing their ground against overwhelming odds; knowing that each one carries a Field Marshall’s baton in their knapsack, with their ability to strike fear into the heart of the foe’s knight, bishop, rook—even their queen! The enemy king trembles at their ability to march steadily forward, never retreating. It is little wonder that Philidor said that the little chaps are the soul of the game. A bishop can be good or bad and a rook can be right or wrong; however, the humble pawn has a lexicon of its own. Below are some of the more common terms. Pawnimology: • Backward pawn – When a pawn cannot move to the same rank as its forward companion/s without being captured. • Blocked pawn – When the pawn cannot move forward due a hostile piece occupying the square in front of it. • Connected pawns – when two pawns (sometimes more) are together on the same rank. These are sometimes called ‘united pawns’. • Doubled pawns – When one pawn is in front of the other on the same file. • Isolated pawn – A pawn with no companion pawns next to it. • Isolani – more than one isolated pawn. • Mobile pawns – Pawns that are not blocked by enemy pieces and can progress down the board • Pawn chain - Consists of two or more of a player's pawns connected (lined up diagonally), where a rear pawn is protecting a vertically forward pawn one rank. • Phalanx of pawns – When there are three or more pawns next to each other on the same rank. • Passed pawn – A pawn with no opposing pawns to prevent it from advancing to the eighth rank, i.e. there are no opposing pawns in front of it on the same file nor on an adjacent file • Pawn majority – When one player has a greater number of pawns on one side of the board. • Pawn minority – When one player has a lesser number of pawns on one side of the board. • Pawn islands – unconnected groups or isolated pawns. A platoon of pawns is a formidable sight whereas, as Tartakover so aptly put it, ‘An isolated pawn spreads gloom all over the board.’ And it is here, with our platoon, that we shall start examining what makes pawns tick. When we start a game of chess each pawn is working in cooperation with the other. Like a phalanx of hoplites (early Greco infantry), pawns don’t protect the square in front of them but the squares in front of those pawns next to it. When a phalanx of hoplites moved it moved in unison, each man keeping pace with the other, protecting each other's flank. If one man broke rank a weakness was created and through this the enemy would quickly charge. The same is true with pawns—move one and you weaken the squares to either side of its companions. Richard Reti, ‘The essential disadvantage of the isolated pawn lies not in the pawn itself, but in the square in front of the pawn.’ -A pawn can't defend or attack the square in front of it--this is a weak square. Weak squares make ideal outposts for hostile pieces. Before you move a pawn you need to consider how the weak square could be used to advantage by your opponent. If you place three connected pawns, g4, f4, e4 the squares g5, f5, e5 are all defended; however, move the pawn f4-f5 and you create three weak squares! If you must move a pawn make sure you have adequate compensation for the weakness/es you've created. Philidor, ‘A pawn, when separated from his fellows, will seldom or never make a fortune.’ -An isolated pawn can be a definite weakness for it may require constant defence by pieces. It can also protect, inadvertently, and be blocked by a hostile piece placed in the weak square in front it. However, there are variations of the Queen Gambit where play is deliberate to create an isolated queen’s pawn: 1.d4 d5 2.c4 e6 3.Nc3 c5 4.e3 Nf6 5.Nf3 Nc6 6.Bd3 dxc4 7.Bxc4 cxd4 8.exd4 Be7, for example. In theory this opening is favourable for Black as he has gained a tempo, since White has moved the bishop twice. How to turn this advantage to a win is what the variation is all about! As Dr. Tarrasch said, ‘He who fears an isolated Queen’s pawn should give up chess.’ The Caro-Kan can also produce an isolated pawn: 1.e4 c6 2.d4 d5 3.exd5 cxd5 4.c4 e6 5.Nc3 Nf6 6.Nf3 Nc6 7.Be2 Be7 8.0-0 0-0 9.Bg5 dxc4 10.Bxc4. In the Queen’s Gambit and the Caro-Kann the isolated pawn is created purposefully, for a strategic idea, which is beyond the scope of this article. -Unless you create the isolated pawn, on purpose, for a certain aim, plan or stratagem, you’re going to be saddled with a definite weakness in your position. When you have an unwanted isolated pawn see if there’s any advantageous way of getting rid of it. -If the isolated pawn is backed up by pieces it can also be used for attack, to drive a wedge into the opponent’s position, however, care should be taken when attempting this. Don’t create weaknesses elsewhere in trying to turn your pawn into a battering ram. Tarrasch: ‘Weak points or holes in the opponent’s position must be occupied by pieces, not by pawns.’ -Place a white pawn on a4 and b5; then place a black pawn on b6. The pawn on a4 is backward—it can only advance if supported by pieces or as a sacrifice. The square a5 is a weak square, or a hole, as it can’t be defended by another pawn: it’s a perfect outpost for an enemy piece. -Being able to exploit the weak square in front of a backward pawn can prove decisive! Your opponent must divert pieces to the defense, or possible exchanging of the intruder. The reverse is also true! It may be you that’s tying down pieces to the defense. -The longer the pawn remains backward the longer the weakness is there; therefore, try to get rid it—see if you can push the pawn forward or sacrifice it. If the backward pawn begins to weigh down your pieces to its defense, perhaps it's best to let it go so those remaining might be more gainfully employed. To quote La Bourdonnais: ‘As a place for an advance post the square in front of a hostile backward pawn, the “hole” in the array of pawns, is most suitable, for from that post an officer can most effectively obstruct and harass the enemy, while it is at the same time safe from attack by pawns.’ -There is only one time a backward pawn can be useful and that’s as a plug to stop your opponent’s pieces from charging into your position. If the backward pawn is defended then its capture means capturing the captor. This could lead to an ‘arms race’. As pieces pile up for the attack and defense weaknesses might be created that could be tactically exploited—the backward pawn was merely the bait in the trap. Doubled pawns can be problematic depending on, that hoary old chestnut, the position. To begin with, the forward doubled pawn has a weak square in front of it; then it can hinder the mobility of the pieces. It’s a natural target for your opponent as well. Depending on how many resources are required to ‘save’ it the better option could be to let it go and get on with the rest of the game. If that is your choice try to sacrifice the little chap at a moment of your choosing so it lays down its life for some purpose—diverting another piece or attack or disrupting the opponent’s position, for example. Can doubled pawns ever be good? Yes they can according to F.J.Lee and G.H.D. Gossip, in 'The Complete Chess Guide’, Edinburgh John Grant, published 1903, page 16: ‘A doubled pawn is not always disadvantageous, especially on the Bishop’s files, or when united with other pawns so as to form a strong cluster or phalanx.’ In essence, what Lee and Gossip are saying is don’t treat the forward doubled pawn as isolated. Try to see that pawn as part of a squad that stick together, ready to move forward at a moment’s notice. Nimzovitch, ‘The passed pawn is a criminal, who should be kept under lock and key. Mild measures, such as police surveillance, are not sufficient.’ -Your humble pawn grows in stature and strength the closer it is to the 8th rank; for once there it can convert to any other piece except a king. -A hurrying pawn can completely alter the course of a game--your opponent trying desperately to stop it as you do everything in your power to ensure it reaches its destination. -The biggest problem an advancing pawn faces isn't a knight, bishop, rook or queen--it's a hostile pawn on the same or an adjacent file. If these two obstacles cannot be overcome the long march is finished before it began. -A passed pawn can arise from using your pawn majority on one side of the board or forcing and exchange so you can recapture with a pawn. When you want to create a passed pawn with your pawn majority begin by advancing that pawn which is not opposed by an enemy pawn on the same file. For example: white pawns on a2, b2, c2; black pawns on a7 b7--start by playing c2-c4. Capablanca, ‘A passed pawn increases in strength as the number of pieces on the board diminishes.’ -As your opponent’s passed pawn is a dire threat, its dreams of greatness must be thwarted. A blockade is needed, something to stop the pawn’s progress. The square to blockade is the one immediately in front, the weak square. The blockading piece, ideally, should be a minor piece—a knight or a bishop, preferably a knight since it has a short range. In and endgame when there are few pieces on the board it’s better to have long range pieces active rather than tied down. To be continued in February, ‘09… Ref: Lasker’s Chess Manual- Emmanuel Lasker, Printing Craft Limited Londong 1932 The Game Of Chess – Seigbert Tarrasch, David McKay Company Washington 1940 The Complete Chess Guide – F.J. Lee and G.H.D. Gossip, John Grant Edinburgh 1903 Pachmans’ Modern Chess Strategy – Ludek Pachman, Sir Isaac Pitman and Sons Ltd. London 1963 The Modern Chess Primer – The Rev. E.E. Cunnington, George Routledge and Sons Ltd. Londong 1899 |
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Pawnology 101, Part 2 jc Pawnology 101, Part 2 by poltroon Tarrasch: ‘It cannot be too greatly emphasized that the most important role in pawn endings is played by the king.’ Pawn majority on the wing The main strategic idea behind having a pawn majority is the creation of a passed pawn. It is often written that when one side has a majority of pawns on the Queen’s wing it is an advantage. To understand why, the endgame and middle game need to be considered. The endgame: The pieces are off the board; the Kings have castled (0-0) and White has a majority on the Q-side, Black on the K-side. If they both advance the pawns of their majority side, White will be able to create a passed pawn on the Q-side while Black will be able to on the K-side. However, for White it will be easier to march the pawns because there is no King on that side to harass them. In the endgame one important strategic principle is to centralize the king. Once this has occurred it can move to either wing. With the defending King centralized, the opponent’s majority on either wing ceases to be an advantage. In many master games once the Queens are off the board nobody seems in a hurry to castle their king to safety. They prefer to keep them centralized for the ensuing endgame. Players may also try to either capture or recapture with their king to gain a tempo towards the center. In the middle game it would be practically suicidal to march the monarch out, yet even then a Q-side majority is an advantage. With Kingside castling, the Q-side pawns can be advanced without endangering the King. If both players have castled Q-side (0-0-0) the situation is reversed. If the players have castled on opposite wings, things are on par [equal]. Passed Pawns If you have a passed pawn you should try to move it forward at every given opportunity—the closer it is to queening the greater its threat. C.J.S. Purdy had this to say on the matter: ‘If you already have a passed pawn, however, it is occasionally good to advance it even with “development” incomplete, in order to draw away enemy pieces. When you’re considering how to proceed don’t discount sacrificing a pawn if it assists in advancing your passed pawn. If this can be done with a gain in tempo so much the better. Capablanca: ‘A Passed Pawn increases in strength as the number of pieces on the board diminishes.’ A pawn advantage Steinitz: ‘A pawn ahead is worth a little trouble.’ Either by luck or by design you find yourself a pawn to the good; you have numerical superiority! As soon as this happens many players turn the game into one of attrition, exchanging pieces wherever and whenever possible, hoping that their extra pawn will bring them victory. Here is what Seigbert Tarrasch had to say about being a pawn in front:‘The winning of a pawn among good players of even strength often means the winning of the game.’ It is important to note that he doesn’t say victory is assured. Depending on the position and who has the move even with just kings and a pawn the game can be drawn (depending on who has the move). The other danger from thoughtless swapping off of pieces is that your position could deteriorate to such an extent that the additional pawn becomes useless, perhaps even a liability! It is time to start looking at the additional pawn in a different way—not as the knight in shining amour that will bring ultimate victory but as an expendable foot soldier that can sabotage the enemy. Alexander Alekhine wasn’t shy about trading off his additional pawn (when he had one). He was quite happy to give up his material superiority for positional superiority. Alekhine’s way of exploiting a pawn plus was to look for opportunities to return the pawn for a positional gain. In his endgames he only exchanges when he can without making any positional concessions. Think of your additional pawn as a potential positional plus—how to either exchange or return it for a positional advantage. Ref: Lasker’s Chess Manual- Emmanuel Lasker, Printing Craft Limited Londong 1932 The Game Of Chess – Seigbert Tarrasch, David McKay Company Washington 1940 The Complete Chess Guide – F.J. Lee and G.H.D. Gossip, John Grant Edinburgh 1903 Pachmans’ Modern Chess Strategy – Ludek Pachman, Sir Isaac Pitman and Sons Ltd. London 1963 The Modern Chess Primer – The Rev. E.E. Cunnington, George Routledge and Sons Ltd. Londong 1899 C.J.S. Purdy His Life, His Games, His Writings’ by J. Hammond and R. Jamieson, Belmont Printing, Melbourne 1982 |
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doji 02-Feb-09, 01:08 |
Thanks for the info In an endgame with only pawns and kings, I am sometimes wondering what to do or where to go to, but this information can be a great help. Also the part about castling gives me new information.... Thanks. Jo |
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Thank you... |
